美山町的風光和鹿肉料理(2013)

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籌備旅程之初一早已經預計要到丹後、天橋立一遊,也早早預計好要租車自駕,於是連帶查看沿路會經過的景點。在背包客棧上發現大大們十分推薦美山町,於是決定離開京都時前往。坦白講,這一帶交通頗為不便,巴士班次疏落,鐵路又遠,最方便除了自駕外,應該是參與日本當地旅行社的巴士團了。
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美山町位於京都西北山中的一個盆地,駕車前往約須兩個半小時左右,其中會經過賞櫻名所高雄一帶,其實可以構成一天行程。當地是日本現存少數茅葺屋(合掌屋)村落之一,名氣和合掌屋的數量不及最著名的白川鄉,不過美山的田野風光同樣十分美麗,而且多數屋中都仍然住著民家,可以參觀其中居民的生活概況。話說大叔長居鬧市,對於鄉郊生活很感興趣……
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當地的合掌屋位置頗為分散,但最集中的部落在巴士站和遊客中心附近,慢慢走用一、兩小時可以走遍。偶而遇上其中居民他們似乎對於遊客都見怪不怪,悠然自得的樣子,又或者經營民宿、餐廳等等。
各處都可見自助無人看管的當地蔬菜售賣處,不過可能我們在中午左右才到達,當天所見各處的蔬菜都已售罄。
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這一家人似乎很喜歡風乾洋蔥呢!先前在其他網友的照片中都見到照片,到自己來訪時見到同一個景象,好像時間停留了似的。
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位於山區和比較北的關係,美山的櫻花較京都市內的晚開,我們到達時正開得不錯,不少櫻花都和住家近鄰,想必是屋主的精心傑作。
另外一區距巴士站三分鐘車程的自然文化中心河鹿莊一帶同樣廣植櫻花,圍繞著球場種植的這一圈構成美麗的圖畫。河鹿莊是當地較大規模的設施,基本上是一間古老造型木建溫泉旅館,但是從網頁和看板上可見又可安排釣魚、賞螢等等活動,當然要合時節。我們會到這裏來除了賞櫻也為了當地名產的鹿肉料理。
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其實多年之前因緣際會曾經吃過鹿肉,感覺和牛肉頗為類似但是肉味較淡而水份較重,今次再品嚐感覺還是一樣。值得一提的是位於山中旅遊區而價格不算貴,味道也算不錯,食物的份量也足,和想像中頗為不同呢!
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吃過午飯之後,我們也別過美山,向宮津、天橋立繼續進發。
日本京都府南丹市美山町
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美山町的風光和鹿肉料理(2013) 有 “ 66 則迴響 ”

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